Bow Drill Bearing Block

Last weekend I made a bow drill bearing block out of a stone.

Bow Drill Bearing Block

First of all you need to find a flat stone that fits nicely in your hand. The next thing you need to do is to start making a depression in it using some flint. 30 minutes later you’ll end up with a bearing block as shown above.

The advantage of a stone bearing block over a wooden bearing block is less friction. You want as much friction on your fire board, but a less friction as possible in your bearing block. Metal and glass are even better materials as a bearing block, but they don’t look as “natural” as a stone one.

Paracord Lanyard Knot

How to make a lanyard knot: a photo tutorial.

Step 1: form a loop with the working end under the standing end.
Lanyard Knot (1 of 14)

Step 2: take the other end of the cord. To make it easier to understand I used a different color of paracord. Pull the working end of the desert tan paracord under the loop.
Lanyard Knot (2 of 14)

Step 3: Pull the working end of the desert tan paracord over the standing part of the green paracord.
Lanyard Knot (3 of 14)

Step 4: make a bight with the working end of the desert tan paracord and pull it under the working end of the green paracord.
Lanyard Knot (4 of 14)

Step 5: pull the desert tan paracord over the right side of the loop of the green paracord.
Lanyard Knot (5 of 14)

Step 6: pull the working end of the desert tan paracord under it’s own standing part.
Lanyard Knot (6 of 14)

Step 7: continue to pull the working part of the desert tan paracord over the left side of the green paracord loop. You now see a diamond shape in the middle.
Lanyard Knot (7 of 14)

Step 8: with the working end of the green paracord you make a bight to the top and pull it over the standing part of the desert tan paracord.
Lanyard Knot (8 of 14)

Step 9: pull the working end of the green paracord under both loops into the diamond shape.
Lanyard Knot (9 of 14)

Step 10: pull further and make a bight to the right.
Lanyard Knot (10 of 14)

Step 11: take the desert tan paracord and make a bight to the left over the standing part of the green paracord.
Lanyard Knot (11 of 14)

Step 12: pull the desert tan paracord under both loops, trough the diamond shape and make a bight to the left.
Lanyard Knot (12 of 14)

Step 13: tighten everything up.
Lanyard Knot (13 of 14)

Step 14: and we end up with a nicely knotted lanyard knot.
Lanyard Knot (14 of 14)

Gathering Flint

A fellow bushcrafter, Mike – Survivalmike- , was looking for flint. To bad for him, in Austria there are very few sources of flint (if there are any). So he posted a video on youtube to ask for help.

Lucky for me (and for him) I live near an area full of flint (see previous posts). So I decided to help him out, and went gathering some flint to ship to Austria.

Sharpened My Axe

Some years ago I saved this el-cheapo made in China axe from the dump. It wasn’t dull, it was blunt. My Scoutsleaders wanted to throw it away, as it was cheaper to buy a new one, than to resharpen an re-handle it.

For years it was lying in my garage, and only a few weeks ago I decided to give it a new life. I bought a new handle and took my file to grind a new edge. After several hours of filing, sanding with wet&dry and sharpening on Japanese waterstones, I ended up with this.

Bijl - Axe

Bijl - Axe

Although it’s far from perfect (I could have removed much more material from the cheaks) it’s razorsharp.

Flint & Steel + Horseshoe Amadou = Fire

Today I’m presenting to you a method of fire lighting, using flint, steel and some horseshoe amadou.

Not so far from where I live there’s a marl cave. There is an abundance of flint in those caves.
Marl cave

The firesteel or steel striker is made by Launditch who I met on

The horseshoe amadou I collected and prepared myself. I’ll explain in detail how I did this in a future post, but in basically you collect the horseshoe fungus, cut out the amadou, cut it into slices, boil it in water with ashes, flatten it with a baton and let it dry.

Broken Fenix LD20

Right after a battery replacement my trusty Fenix LD20 didn’t function anymore. Even after checking the head and tailcap, the LD20 refused to light. A very bad feeling was coming over me…

Maybe the batteries were dead, although the charger told my other ways. Same result with other batteries and since there isn’t much that looks that might go wrong, my only help would be the internet.

Immediately after entering my keywords I stumbled on a site called There it was mentioned to tighten the retaining ring that sits inside the tail cap.

Fixing tailcap

A twist of the wrist later, using my Leatherman Charge TTi, my Fenix LD20 was working again. Please note to tighten the retaining ring counterclockwise.

Bushcrafter by Driftwoodwalker

I ordered a Bushcrafter knife from Lance Ockenden aka Driftwoodwalker.

Had to wait almost four months, but it was worth it. Check it out!


The handle is made from curly birch lined with black liner and fixed with some nice mosaic pins. The lanyard hole measures 8mm.


The knife is very well balanced and feels very comfortable in both the forhand- and the chest lever-grip. Needless to say these are my two most used knife grips.


Ofcourse the knife got a scandi-grind. Ideal for cutting and carving wood, but also very easy to sharpen on japanese waterstones.


The firesteel is attached to the sheath and the handle of the firesteel is made from the remainder of the handle material.


The knife fits very secure in the wet molded leather sheath. The firesteel however could use some extra safety lanyard. The lanyard is made with some paracord and a lanyardknot.


Spoon carving… Is there a better way to baptize a bushcraft knife?



Artificial Fatwood

A time ago I was looking for fatwood, but i couldn’t find any. The only thing that I could find was really dry and porous wood. When I came home I decided to make my own fatwood. Fatwood is just wood and fat (resin 🙂 ) so it shouldn’t be so difficult to make it myself.

I took a small saucepan and filled it with paraffin which I saved from all the candles my wife burned the last two years. Once melted I dropped the pieces of wood in the paraffin.


The bubbles you see on the picture is not the paraffin that’s boiling, but the air that’s coming out the dried wood and being replaced by paraffin.

Once all the bubbles were gone I let the pieces of wood cool down, so the paraffin could harden out. A few hours later I tried the first piece of self made fatwood.

The first two times I tried to light the fatwood (and all other attempts after this video) were successful as of the first or second strike. Only in this video (which is uncut) it took me 21 strokes to get the fatwood burning. It just needs that one little hot sparkle…


Today I went on a small trip with my wife and son to collect some new pieces of flint. The previous flint I brought from this cave is broken into way to small pieces to use with steel striker.

Marl cave
On the left of this picture, you can clearly see the flint bank. It’s compressed between two layers of marl. The funny thing about these marl caves is that the flint is only a side product. People who were working in these caves were out for marl to build house and churches or to make cement. But just like our ancestors, the Neanderthalers, it’s the flint that brings me here.

Walking in a cave like this always smells like an adventure. It’s dark and cold, and you’ll never know who or what you’ll come across. The cave we visited is open for public and not very big. You’ll never get really lost in it.

To collect some flint I didn’t cut into the ceiling nor the walls. I prefer not to take the risk the whole cave would collapse. There are plenty of pieces of flint just laying on the ground. What can be easier than just picking them up?

However, I should have taken some precautions, like wearing gloves. I’ve cut my finger just by picking up a piece of flint. Didn’t they used to make knives and axes from silex 😉 ?
Finger cut